Eva Leube is an independent watchmaker located in Manly, near Sydney in Australia and since 2004 has been building unique, handmade watches with complicated mechanisms.
She has just recently released her first timepiece “Ari” – named after her son, which was presented at Baselworld 2011.
Eva started studying watchmaking at 16 and has been a master watchmaker since 1995 having worked as a specialist at Rolex for 6 years and more recently for Thomas Prescher from 2004-7.
At Thomas Prescher she worked on his complex mechanisms, including double-retrograde time indication and multiple-axis flying tourbillons and received her introduction to the different world of independent watchmaking.
What first strikes you about “Ari” is its slender, dramatically curved case which gives it a dynamic look. The traditional mechanical aspects combined with its unconventional shape also give it a sort of “miniature clock for the wrist” feeling and overall its a striking piece that immediately grabs your attention.
Watches for men with longer more curved cases became fashionable in the 1930’s, for example the Gruen Curvex. Distinctly curved cases can cause technical difficulties and Gruen realised that in order to overcome these it was better to build a curved movement.
This was also a technical challenge for “Ari” and the mechanism had to be completely re-worked; instead of sheet metal, solid blocks had to be used for all of the curved parts such as the case parts, mainplate, bridges .. According to Eva the “curve of the movement is the actual “complication” in my watch ”
The length of the case is 53.44mm, its width 21.6mm, and the height, 8.45mm and given the watch’s distinct curvature you can’t help but wonder how well it fits on wrists of different sizes and shapes. With that in mind different diameters were tested out on differing wrist sizes and an average calculated in order to create a ‘one size fits all’ shape.
The case of the Eva Leube Ari watch is made from either Platinum 950 or 18k gold, the movements two dials are also 18k gold and all parts are handmade by Eva except the Sapphire Crystal and strap, the caseback features the “Leube” coat of arms customised with horological symbolism and engraved by master engraver John Thompson.
Eva draws inspiration from old paintings and handmade art and “Ari” has a raw artistic quality not present in most watches, its sure to fascinate people interested in both watches and objet d’art.